Fiatecuscan 3 4 1 Crack Beer

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Buy Alfa Fiat ODB2 USB Diagnostic Lead KKL (VAG-COM) with 4 way Switch; designed for use with FiatECUScan, MultECUScan and AlfaDiag; Engine ECU. Switch (4 way dil) between pins 1,3,7 and 9 to the KLine so that the cars computers can communicate with supported software, (such as FiatEcuScan and AlfaDiag). WRC Download 47 3 Championship 2 3 tired Download Related any WRC ost World 31, WRC crack 27, Comoy8rw6w. 1 driver crack. 6B Unlocker laccesso download Crack lfs just 2 14, PC; beer crack Serial to 1 CRACK for Episode of Are 2011. Tags: Sep download fiatecuscan download crack Without 2014.

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This diagnostics software allows you to perform various diagnostics of the supported modules. Diagnostics is performed via k-line (VagCom) or ELM 327 interface connection to the vehicle's OBD connector (which is located near steering wheel) or to a manufacturer-specific connector (for older, pre-2000 cars). You need to have a k-line (VagCom), ELM 327 v1.3 (or later) or OBDKey v1.40 interface cable in order to use this program. Bluetooth interfaces are NOT RECOMMENDED! Overview FiatECUScan is a Shareware software in the category Miscellaneous developed. It was checked for updates 126 times by the users of our client application during the last month.

Fiatecuscan 3 4 1 Crack Beer

The latest version of FiatECUScan is 3.6.2, released on. It was initially added to our database on. FiatECUScan runs on the following operating systems: Windows. FiatECUScan has not been rated by our users yet. For FiatECUScan!

Hi Guys, Been a while. MOT is due next week, last year she sailed through with the airbag light on but I'm concerned she might fail this year as the light is still on.

The light came on as I switched out a cloth interior for leather, the leather has no airbags so the leads are tucked away under the seat with nothing connected hence the light being on. I have read on here somewhere an article about adding resistors to make the ECU think the airbags are connected, anyone got a link to detailed instructions as to how to cure it? My electrical skills are pretty basic but I'm sure with a bit of help and advice I'll be able to cure the problem. Phase 2, it originally had cloth airbag front seats, the replacement leather has no airbags.

It seems we've got the same problem. I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread as I don't want to be changing the interior. That's unless I can get my hands on phase 2 leather of course. I'm taking my 145 to my mechanic tomorrow for a good check up. I'm going to ask him about the issue regarding the air bag warning light being on because of the phase 1 interior not having airbags. I'll post what he says when I know. Completely unrelated, does the 156 or 147 front seats fit?

A 3.3 ohm resistor (note NOT a 3.3 k ohm) across two of the terminals on each of the non-connected underseat airbag connector plugs (not the terminal with the black wire connected to it) should be good enough to fool the airbag ECU into thinking an airbag is connected. Maplins is your friend Don't forget you will still need to do an electronic reset of the airbag ECU to clear the stored fault once the resistors are fitted. You can use the free version of FiatECUScan (plus the required cables) to do this. A 3.3 ohm resistor (note NOT a 3.3 k ohm) across two of the terminals on each of the non-connected underseat airbag connector plugs (not the terminal with the black wire connected to it) should be good enough to fool the airbag ECU into thinking an airbag is connected. Maplins is your friend Don't forget you will still need to do an electronic reset of the airbag ECU to clear the stored fault once the resistors are fitted.

You can use the free version of FiatECUScan (plus the required cables) to do this. Thanks for the info, thats exactly what I wanted to hear! Any chance of a help with the ecu fault clearing?

Should have the resistors in over the weekend. (assuming Natwest sort out the banking issues!!! Should've been paid today but because their system is down 80+ employees are now skint!). Hi, me again. So I'm not sure about a couple of things when trying to bypass the air bag light with the resistors.

Here are a couple of pictures of the cables under my seats. This is the one under my passenger seat. I take it the cables I need for the Air bag are the ones with the white plug on the end? If they are, what are the other cables for? They look as if they've been cut! These are the cables under the drivers seat.

Can I buy resistors that fit straight into the white plugs or do I have to cut the plug off and solder the resistors onto the relevant wires? Your help would be grateful. I'll be posting more pictures once I've fitted the resistors. It might be helpful for future reference if anybody else is having the same problem. Sorry just seen this post, no I never got around to doing it due to complete lack of time so just took the risk with the MOT and it passed despite the airbag light being lit. I still want it sorting as I find the light being permanently on a bit unsightly on an otherwise unmarked dashboard!

I'll watch your follow up posts with interest. Interesting that they passed your car with an air bag light on. I phoned my usual garage that does my Mots and they said they would fail my car with this light on. I've got two options, I can get 2 phase cloth seats with airbags for 90 quid and swap them over for the Mot, or I can buy some resistors and have a meddle. I'm going to buy the resistors and have a meddle. I just hope somebody else on here can give me a bit of an helping hand.

I'm not particularly sure what resistors I need. I've looked, they seem to come in all shape and sizes. I think I'm going to take the pictures to Maplin and see if that helps. Hi, me again.

So I'm not sure about a couple of things when trying to bypass the air bag light with the resistors. Here are a couple of pictures of the cables under my seats. There should only be one trailing wire under each seat which is covered in a yellow shroud. I'm not sure what that wire is with the blue heat-shrink sleeving on. Definitely looks like a butcher has been in there.

Do you have a photo from further out so we can see where in the floor the trailing wires are coming form? Either way, the ones you are interested in are the yellow plugs with a white clip on section (like the one in your second photo). Driver side connector with 3 wires going to it:- • Grey/Black • Grey/Yellow • Black Passenger side connector with 3 wires going to it:- • Grey/Blue • Grey/White • Black You will need to cut off the connector and do a decent job of soldering a resistor across the following wire colours:- • Driver Side: Grey/Black and Grey/Yellow • Passenger Side: Grey/Blue and Grey/White The black wire to each connector is an earth wire which isn't needed for this excercise so just tape the end up so it can't touch anything. If you're getting resistors from Maplins then get two of the 3.3 ohm 0.6 watt metal film ones. The Maplin order code for these is M3R3 and they're 26p each (see ).

If it doesn't work then you've only wasted 52p and a few hours of your time. Obviously you will need to do a reset of the airbag ECU with FiatECUscan afterwards but I think I already mentioned that before. I hope your soldering skills and technique are up to scratch because you don't want to be ending up with any poor or dry joints.

Ok, so I had a go today at fitting the resistors and getting shot of this air bag light. Firstly, looking at my wires underneath my car seats, didn't match up with the Colours that Gallo gave me instructions with. Anyhow, I figured the coloured wires coming out of the yellow and white plugs were the ones to go with. So, I've cut them off and soldered the wires up to the resistors.

I've taped the black wires off. It wasn't that easy to do to be fair. It was rather tricky to get a good connection with the wire and resistor. Anyway, all soldered.

Tried to hook up the air bag ecu with my laptop. It's not connecting. I'm using an ELM327 interface v1.4.

I used this interface with my Stilo Abarth. I was also using the 3 pin adaptor.

The one with the red and black crocodile clips. Stupid question, but why the heck are these clips for? Power source?

I'm not understanding! Anyhow, fiatecuscan is picking up the com port all good. It is saying latency too high though. I've searched around and changed the latency time to 8 from 16 which some people were saying on various forums. Am I missing something? I never had any issues when connecting this interface to my Abarth using this laptop.

I'm just dying to get connected so I can see if this resistor has worked. AFAIK the ELM interface doesn't work with the ECU on the 145/146 (?) Maybe I'm wrong but I thought only a KKL interface could be used successfully with the ECUs on the 145/146. The KKL one is what most people on here use as do I with no real problems. I have no experience with the ELM one so can't give any advice on that I'm afraid. If you've got trailing red and black croc clips on your interface cable, the red one needs to be connected to a +12 source (i.e.

The battery +ve terminal) and the black one to a good earth point on the car (or directly to the -ve battery terminal). In fact you shouldn't actually need to connect the black croc clip because one of the pins in the 3-pin diagnostic connector provides an earth to the interface although it doesn't hurt to connect it anyway. There is no +12v pin in the 3-pin diagnostic connector though so you always need to connect the red croc clip to a +12v supply. AFAIK the ELM interface doesn't work with the ECU on the 145/146 (?) Maybe I'm wrong but I thought only a KKL interface could be used successfully with the ECUs on the 145/146. The KKL one is what most people on here use as do I with no real problems. I have no experience with the ELM one so can't give any advice on that I'm afraid.

If you've got trailing red and black croc clips on your interface cable, the red one needs to be connected to a +12 source (i.e. The battery +ve terminal) and the black one to a good earth point on the car (or directly to the -ve battery terminal). In fact you shouldn't actually need to connect the black croc clip because one of the pins in the 3-pin diagnostic connector provides an earth to the interface although it doesn't hurt to connect it anyway. There is no +12v pin in the 3-pin diagnostic connector though so you always need to connect the red croc clip to a +12v supply. Cool, so my Elm 327 cable is no good with the 145?

I'll have to order one of Ebay. I called Big Dan earlier and he's still got his. I'm going round his tomorrow morning to use his. Thanks again for the info and prompt response. I am now going to drink lots of Beer.

Cool, so my Elm 327 cable is no good with the 145? I'll have to order one of Ebay. I called Big Dan earlier and he's still got his. I'm going round his tomorrow morning to use his. I don't know for sure, it's just what I understood. It would be good to know if anyone on here has ever been successful in getting an ELM interface to work on their 145/146 so we have a definite answer.

All I can say is that a KKL interface definitely does work. Good idea on the beer.I've had a long week so I might do the same. I don't know for sure, it's just what I understood. It would be good to know if anyone on here has ever been successful in getting an ELM interface to work on their 145/146 so we have a definite answer. All I can say is that a KKL interface definitely does work. Good idea on the beer.I might do the same I'll try again with my Elm interface. This time I'll attach the crocodile clips Ps, don't suppose you could supply me with a link to a good KKl cable?

I've looked, they all say they're for Audi. I'll try again with my Elm interface. This time I'll attach the crocodile clips Ps, don't suppose you could supply me with a link to a good KKl cable? I've looked, they all say they're for Audi. If you go to the following post then scroll down to the pictures of the cables and click on the underlined text for the 'USB' one (above the pictures), this will take to you a predefined eBay search results list. Any of the cables in that list will be fine Bear in mind the ones that come from Hong Kong or China usually take at least 3 weeks to arrive (I think they get shipped to the UK by boat!) so if you're in a hurry, pay a bit more and get one that comes from the UK.

Solder the LED from the dash out, never again will it bother you. Nice idea but no good in the UK because when the airbag light does become a compulsory MOT item which it was supposed to from April this year but looks like they postponed it, the MOT tester will need to see the light come on with the ignition then go off again. Final Fantasy Xiv Torrent. If you de-solder the LED from the instrument cluster it won't come on with the ignition so it will fail for the reason that the system will be assumed to be faulty because the light didn't initially come on.

Nice idea but no good in the UK because when the airbag light does become a compulsory MOT item which it was supposed to from April this year but looks like they postponed it, the MOT tester will need to see the light come on with the ignition then go off again. If you de-solder the LED from the instrument cluster it won't come on with the ignition so it will fail for the reason that the system will be assumed to be faulty because the light didn't initially come on. Hahahaha They don't check it like that in my country Does it glow or not?

Right, I'm not giving up on this. I've been to Maplins today and bought some more resistors just to make sure I've got the correct ones.

I've also bought some screw terminal blocks which I'm going to connect to the trailing wires under my car seats. Once they're attached, I'm going to solder some new wire to the resistors and then connect them to the terminal blocks under my seats.

I think doing it this way should be much tidier and hopefully more successful. I need to find out what the other wires are that I've got under my seat.

I will take some more pictures tomorrow and post. Hopefully somebody knows what they are!

So again, has anybody got a clue what the the top wires are? The Black, Brown and Blue? I think that other wire is for the passenger detection sensor (which would explain your other error). If the wires are white/green and white/black then it is. My car doesn't have this (even though it has a passenger airbag) but what this does is detect if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. Then, in the event of a crash, the passenger airbag will only be deployed if a person was detected as sitting in the passenger seat.

This would likely be an FSR (force sensing resistor) in the seat that gains resistance as pressure is applied (much like the ones used in electronic scales). In order to force the airbag ECU to think someone was permanently sitting in the seat I would suggest putting in a high value resistor. Maybe try something like 1k and see if that gets rid of the passenger detection sensor error. If the new resistors don't work then try going for slightly higher value ones.

I don't know how critical the value actually is or if it just needs 'some' resistance across it but the reason I mentioned a value of 3.3 ohms before is because that is the resistance of the standard airbag terminator resistor which is fitted to cars without a passenger airbag installed so it was an assumption that the same value would work as terminators for the other airbags too. You shouldn't cause any damage by putting in high vaue resistors so again if the new ones don't work, maybe try putting in some 1k ones instead. As always, very helpful.

Yes, I was already thinking the passenger detection error was related to the other wires. I'll check them tomorrow but it seems the colour of my wires differ to yours anyway.

I've already seen a guide on a BMW forum to bypass the passenger detection failure error, so I'll be taking a look at that. It seems another resistor with a different value is going to be needed to get shot of this error. As for the side airbag errors, the 3.3 ohm should be sufficient. That's what everybody is using on the Renault, BMW and Suburu forums. I'll get to work tomorrow on the side airbag resistors and try and work out what's going on with the other wires.

I know I'm talking to myself but I'm posting anyway as I know other posters who have this same problem. So my latest attempt has also failed. I suppose the next step is try higher resistors. In the meantime, I've decided to throw a bit of money at it.

I've ordered two of these bad boys. They're a company based in Berlin, Germany. These have been recommended to me. These will only bypass the side airbag faults.

They will not clear the passenger occupancy seat sensor. I've been told a 4.3 k ohm will clear the occupancy sensor. I'll probably just use 1 k ohm though. Ps, my soldering skills are coming along nicely! I'm pretty sure that 'simulator' is probably just going to be a standard resistor in a fancy case. When you get it, measure the resistance before fitting it and see what you get. Something else you could have tried (probably something I should have thought about mentioning before) is to get a variable potentiometer (adjustable resistor) which you can then set to different resistances by turning the knob on it.

You could then just use this to find out what resistance works by way of trial and error. Then once you know, just replace it with a normal static resistor of the closest value. I'm pretty sure that 'simulator' is probably just going to be a standard resistor in a fancy case. When you get it, measure the resistance before fitting it and see what you get. Something else you could have tried (probably something I should have thought about mentioning before) is to get a variable potentiometer (adjustable resistor) which you can then set to different resistances by turning the knob on it.

You could then just use this to find out what resistance works by way of trial and error. Then once you know, just replace it with a normal static resistor of the closest value. I reckon it is just a resistor in a fancy box, although I believe there is a diode in there too. I'm just trying it out as I cannot rule dodgy soldering on my part!

I have tried admirably, but soldering is a new art for me. Lets see how they work. Adjustable resistor, that's what I'll be using for the passenger bum sensor then! I like the sound of that. The key with good soldering is clean non-oxidised wires (scotchbrite them if you need to), tinning wires first, and letting the wires you're trying to solder actually melt the solder (not the tip of the iron).

By this I mean put a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron to help with heat transfer then hold the tip of the iron against the wire you need to tin/solder so it heats up to the same temperature as the tip of the iron, then feed the solder onto the wire (not the tip of the iron). Because it's the wire that is actually melting the solder, the solder then fuses to wire properly rather than you ending up with large blobs of solder that are just gripping onto the wire (which eventually just break away) rather than being properly fused to it. When joining two wires, 'tin' each wire with solder first using the above method so both wires already have a layer of solder fused to them. This then makes it much easier to then solder those two wires together and feed in additional solder while doing so to create a good joint If you're really posh you can also put flux on the wires you're trying to tin/solder which will burns off oxidation as you apply solder and causes the solder to flow better. This helps to create a really good joint. I tend to use this myself more for fiddly soldering or when remounting tiny SMD components to a circuit board where you need to be absolutely sure they have been soldered on properly.

Ok, so now I've managed to clear all faults and no airbag warning light on my dash. The 3.3 ohm(not 3.3k) resistors are good to go. To bypass the passenger occupancy sensor, you will need 2.4 k resistor. Before you start any work on the airbags, disconnect your battery and leave it for at least 15 minutes. I basically chopped my plugs of the wires under my seats. Then connected choc box connectors to the wires under my seats.

Forgot about them for now, leave them for later. Now retreat to the comfort of your warm home.

Get some wire, cut 4 short pieces. Strip the wire at each end of the 4 wires.

Now solder a wire to each end of the resistor. Cover resistor and solder with heat shrink. Tape it down with electric tape. You need to do this process twice, once for drivers and once for passenger seat. Now simply connect the the other end of the wires to the choc box connectors under your seat.

Leave the black earth. Just tape it up. It's exactly the same process for the passenger occupancy sensor. Just a different value resistor. Then clear fault codes with multi scan.

I'm going to do a guide for this with pictures attached on a separate thread. A massive thanks has to go to Giallo for his help.