The main part is suspension (i will try to make a nice long guide so that i dont have to be bored:razz suspension has a few setup areas that can make and brake a set. The first is ride height, this is not important until the end of the suspension tuning. Stiffness, the stiffer the spring the more oversteer there generally is, so why not tighten up the rear all the way? Because in drifting you need control too. So you should have the rear springs generally about 3/4 of the way to the right, and about 1/3 to 1/2 in the front.
Then you should come back and tweak it as needed. Then there is damping. This is how much resistance to bounce it has, you should drop your car and ajust it so there is the fall compress and depress and stops there, both for front and rear. It also affects fine tuning for drifts. So if you are understeering too much you should have a little less dampening and vice versa.
(that goes for grip too) sway bars. These do not do much in drifting as far as i know, so i just have the front more then the rear by a little and keep it around 1/4 sway bar ride height.
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You should drop your car and have it low enough so it just barely looks like it is bottoming out. Drivetrain: clutches. To keep it simple enough, the locked diff is very easy to drift but hard to drive, open diff is oppisite, clutch just puts force on having the wheels not spin at different speeds, and viscous depends on the speed of the wheels. I tend to like clutch at a pretty high locking, moterate coast (or whatever it is called), and kinda high force.
Viscous at moderate force, and stay away from open. For gearing keep it how it was, and lower the final (to the right) a little bit so you can keep the rpms up. (have it so it maxes out at the fastest part of the track) tires: the type of tire really doesnt matter too much, but i like to stick to normal tires.
First of all you should put your front camber at -2.5 degrees, and your rear at about.5 to -1.25. The tire pressure for the front should stay around 30 psi, and in the rear inflate them a lot so they dont get too hot too fast. Passengers: the amount of passengers doesnt matter too much, but if you want perfect balance put someone in the passenger seat. Hope i helped:I would like to add something to logitekg25's suggestion. The anti roll really affects how your car behaves.
Softening it would give you more body roll but more grip. Hardening it would liven (e.g. The rear suspension) the rear.
In words, harder anti roll in the rear means more slide angle, but the front also needs to be hardened to prevent you from spinning. I am a die hard lock diff fan so my opinion is not accurate. Normally a drift set should have a lower than default final drive, and the 3,4,5,6 gears should be closer. This is to give you more revs (and also more power) to play with when drifting. Brake balance. I advise you to leave it as normal.
Once you get more familiar with getting sideways, try to tune the brake balance to be more rear-biased. Driver Joystick Usb Welcome. You would then be able to brake and slide into a corner. Just another opinion.
I would like to add something to logitekg25's suggestion. The anti roll really affects how your car behaves. Softening it would give you more body roll but more grip. Hardening it would liven (e.g. The rear suspension) the rear. In words, harder anti roll in the rear means more slide angle, but the front also needs to be hardened to prevent you from spinning.
I am a die hard lock diff fan so my opinion is not accurate. Normally a drift set should have a lower than default final drive, and the 3,4,5,6 gears should be closer. This is to give you more revs (and also more power) to play with when drifting.
Brake balance. I advise you to leave it as normal. Once you get more familiar with getting sideways, try to tune the brake balance to be more rear-biased. You would then be able to brake and slide into a corner. I also have something to add.
It is important that you create or get a setup that suits your drifting style. For instance, I am a rather moderate low - to - mid drifting angle type of person. Thus I set my suspension for a rather mild oversteer, rather than a lot of oversteer for a show, or a tad understeer for speed. As far I am concerned, ride height doesn't have much to do with handling, (may have a little, but won't have dramatic changes like to dampers) except having too little will make your car very unstable and seldomly unpredictable.
And will eventually ruin the suspension. I remember reading something when I used to play GT4, which was around 6 months ago. He wrote something along the lines of this Pros / Cons of High Ride Height + Can utilize a soft suspension + Easier to drive (soft) for beginners + Tolerance for a bumpy road - Aesthetically disgusting - Not as aerodynamic This is what I do for tuning. May differ from others. As for tuning the dampers, which is what I tune for the handling of the car, dampers, like what my friend g25 said.
'They provide the resistance; they damp the force.' After getting what I want, I tune the spring stiffness to work in harmony with it. Then I use the sway bars to tune the overall handling of the car, at any given time. Here I tune it to a mild oversteer; I am drifting, and my tires give understeer. At the same time, I don't want to be jamming my e-brake 10 times to get my rear to start sliding. I generally use locked - dif. But that depends on you, where you are, and what type of driving you are doing.
I'd like to use clutch based, but I have yet to learn it. Same applies to the drivetrain, which I've still to tune for good next gear revs.
All in all, it depends on your driving, and your style. To me, there is no such thing as the best setup. I may like flooring it out at corner exit, so I might need a tad of understeer for the corner exit. However, there may be setups that just make more sense than others. I may also like flooring the brakes, because I don't have delicate braking (I really don't =D), therefore, I'd need to weaken my braking power so that they don't lock, or adjust the brake balance so that my rear don't lock, but they all grip and apply force in harmony. Do you get where I am going? Good Luck, and enjoy your drifting here @ LFS.
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Additional Downloads Dedicated host Dedicated host for LFS. No need to unlock this one as it comes free for everyone who wants to run hosts (on dedicated computers). (1.8 MB) CMX viewer A small car viewer program which can help with skinning for LFS cars. Read the included readme.txt for installation instructions. (26 MB) Associations A setup tool to configure LFS file and web associations. (180 KB) LFS Remote A simple but effective race spectator and statistics tool, that also includes remote host administration facilities. This is the stand-alone version of.
(Windows) (2 MB) (OS X) (5 MB) Music pack A music addon pack consisting of 17 songs that you can add to your LFS. (115 MB) Logo pack This file contains several versions of the LFS logo and the LFS World logo that you can use for Live for Speed related purposes.
(2.8 MB) Replay analysers Following the link below will take you to the replay analysers page. There you can read about how you can analyse your races via all kinds of telemetry. Archive In the archive you can find old downloads of LFS such as S1 and even older versions. Download Live for Speed.
OS requirements LFS works on both 32 and 64 bit Windows (XP, Vista, 7, 8 and 10). Minimum computer requirements 2 GHz CPU, 256 MB memory, DirectX 9 capable 3D graphics card. Recommended computer requirements 3 GHz CPU, 1024 MB memory, 3D graphics card with at least 512MB memory. LFS is mostly CPU dependent due to its physics calculations. A full multiplayer grid requires a fast CPU more than a fast GPU. The LFS download functions as a demo until unlocked with a licensed account.
To unlock LFS, you need an S1, S2 or S3 license (), and your computer must be connected to the internet! Bittorrent download link If you like, you can use BitTorrent to download Live for Speed. There normally are enough peers to let you download very quickly.